Cuisine: Refined French from Yannick Cam, one of the city’s culinary legends. His boudin blanc is pillowy, his lobster gazpacho elegant, his foie-gras terrine satiny. But his kitchen is racked with inconsistency—you also may encounter overcooked turbot, overbuttered crab custard, and flavorless chestnut gnocchi.

Mood: On a barren avenue near the DC courthouse, the dining room has a luxe allure, from the eggplant velvet chairs to the starry ceiling. It all feels very formal and very French, except for the prices, which are more like Vegas—some appetizers hover around $30.

Best for: Lawyers and lobbyists on expense accounts, French expats, and Yannick Cam loyalists who pine for the days of Le Pavillon.

Best dishes: Foie-gras terrine with stewed apricots and a whiff of Chinese five-spice powder; buffalo-mozzarella salad with macerated red peppers and Niçoise olives; escargot fricassee; boudin blanc; carrot soup with carrot sorbet; gazpacho-themed lobster-claw salad; roasted lobster with Sauternes and butter, a Cam classic; roasted squab with dates and plum pudding; decadent duck breast with a foie-gras torte; trio of crèmes brûlées served with warm-from-the-oven madeleines; maple-syrup soufflé with blood-orange sorbet.

Insider tips: You can dine less formally—and order from the full menu—at the long marble bar. Not on an expense account? At lunch, there’s an extensive $32 three-course menu.

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