Cafes & Carryouts

One of the worst fates for a good, generous place is to be called a “factory.” Not to mention that speed is the last thing you should expect from a bare-bones operation like this one. The heart of the business is kebabs—you can choose the spear of meat you like from the refrigerated case by the counter.

All are charcoal-grilled to order, imparting a smokiness reminiscent of a backyard barbecue. The bone-in chicken ($7.62), more succulent than the boneless, is our pick; the lamb chops ($14.99) are also tasty with a hot, lightly blistered naan and a side of channa, a slow-cooked chickpea stew.