Chicken

“Twenty minutes,” your server warns you when you inquire about the fried chicken at this bright storefront Korean cafe. Patience is easy if you mark time with any of the marvelous, oversize bowls of cold or hot noodles. But don’t fill up. Your 13 bucks fetches an entire chicken served up in golden bite-size, battered pieces on a large white platter. A pinch bowl of salt and red pepper lets you customize each bite. The best way to appreciate this special bird? Alternate bites of meat with bites of the house-made kimchee, all hot and sour and crunch.