Cafes & Carryouts

The menu is legendary for its size—as thick as a novel—and its wit: Chicken breast is called “chicken bosom,” and if you’re in need of a cooldown, you can get an ice-cube sandwich.

Most concoctions harken back to a simpler age, before goat cheese, arugula, and pesto gave every sandwich maker license to call his creations “gourmet.” There are no fancy ingredients, just good, sturdy construction and a spirit of generosity. There are more than 200 sandwiches ($4 and up) to choose from, or you can create your own. Our favorite is the Joel T. Siegel: brisket and lobster salad on your choice of bread (we like rye) with a “golden sauce”—a mixture of ginger, soy sauce, sherry, and mayo—slathered on top.