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Dining on a Shoestring: Good Stuff Eatery, BGR Burger Joint, Ray's Hell-Burger

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By Ann Limpert   Published Tuesday, October 21, 2008

Photographs by Stacy Zarin-Goldberg

From the sesame-seed-topped bun to the hormone-free, aged prime beef, the burger at BGR Burger Joint aims high.

Washington is no stranger to the truly great burger. There’s the rarefied patty with oozy truffle cheese at Palena Cafe, the wonderfully drippy bacon cheeseburger at Central Michel Richard, and the hulkers at Morton’s and Charlie Palmer Steak. It’s been tough, though, to find a memorable burger that doesn’t require a reservation—and a couple of ten-spots. No longer.

The burger wars have erupted, with three new spots duking it out for fast-foodie supremacy.

The flashiest of the bunch is Good Stuff Eatery (303 Pennsylvania Ave., SE; 202-543-8222; goodstuffeatery.com), which launched with a red-carpet party and a mention in the Washington Post’s gossip column. The cause of all the hype: Top Chef castoff Spike Mendelsohn, who recently departed New York City’s Tribeca for DC’s Capitol Hill. Not surprisingly, Good Stuff, which throbs with the sounds of AC/DC and the Doors, is set up to show off its star: As the line of House staffers and bocce leaguers inches closer to the counter, the fedoraed Spike comes into view, joshing with his line cooks in Spanish and schmoozing with the customers. (Actually cooking? Nah.)

Bethesda’s BGR Burger Joint puts vintage album covers on the walls and has a table decorated with Jaggeresque lips.

Though BGR Burger Joint (4827 Fairmont Ave., Bethesda; 301-358-6137; burgerjointdc.com) is a lower-wattage affair, it has something in common with Good Stuff. The best thing about it isn’t the burgers—here it’s the thickly cut fries (Yukon Gold for $2.89, sweet potato for $3.89) and crisply battered Vidalia-onion rings ($4.89).

The burger menu aims to please a variety of palates, with straightforward grilled cheeseburgers ($7.98) on sesame buns and cleverer concoctions like a Cuban burger ($8.99) topped with Serrano ham and sliced pork (delicious); a Greek burger ($12.99) with feta, cucumbers, and lots of cumin (good but a little dry); and a black-bean-studded veggie burger ($7.99), as sweet as maple syrup.

The best sandwich is the seasonal lobster burger ($14.99)—really a lobster roll. The chunks of fresh meat are lightly bound with sweetly flavored mayo and served on three slider-size potato rolls that haven’t been pulled apart.

The problem you’re likely to have with Burger Joint isn’t the food or the upbeat, faux-small-town atmosphere, complete with kiddie-drawn burger art. It’s the tab. Unless you order the basic $8.99 lunch special, you’re looking at $15—at least—for a burger, fries, and root beer.

Both spots could learn a thing or two from Ray’s Hell-Burger (1713 Wilson Blvd., Arlington; 703-841-0001), the brainchild of Ray’s the Steaks provocateur Michael Landrum. The thick ten-ounce patties, made with prime beef, are charred and messy, like the best kind of cookout burgers—and at $6.95, they’re a steal.

They don’t require much embellishment, but a blackboard lists about a dozen cheese options ranging from Vermont cheddar and pepperjack ($1 extra) to haute varieties such as Smokey Blue from Oregon and cave-aged Amish cheddar (both $4). Other add-ons—bread-and-butter pickles, blistered jalapeños—are free. Or you can let Landrum play burger artist and go for preset combos like the excellent Big Poppa, an au poivre burger loaded with grilled red onions, sautéed mushrooms, and bleu cheese, or the blackened New Jack Zing burger with roasted garlic and pepperjack.

You won’t find fries here—or alcohol—but who needs them when the burger’s this memorable?

Word is that Michel Richard will open a burger joint of his own next year. Will the four-star chef surpass Landrum’s accomplishment? We’ll see. But until then, the patty war has been won.

Comments

I’ve eaten at the BGR Burger Joint in Bethesda twice. Each time, I was disappointed. Service took forever, the food quality was so-so, and the prices were a bit ridiculous for the paltry amount of food we got.

Frankly, the whole "best burger" mantle is ridiculous. Best? According to who? Sure, I like Five Guys burgers, but they use canned mushrooms. Some people may not like that. I’ve never had a bad burger at the Hamburger Hamlet, but some people don’t like the sit-down restaurant aspect. In their own ways, Wendy’s, Ruby Tuesday’s, TGI Fridays, etc...all make a great burger.

I think the title you want to bestow is "Best Hoidy-Toidy Overpriced Burger In Washington".

Posted by: Sean D., Dec 30, 2008 10:11:41 AM

Ya’ll got it wrong...the best burger in DC is Morton’s and it only costs $15, which includes toppings and a side. The only problem is you can only get one during lunch.

Posted by: LoveaGoodBurger, Dec 17, 2008 01:30:07 PM

Ok, I had dinner at BGR last night. It was a good burger at $27 for two people it should be better than good. A GREAT burger doesn’t cost a fortune. For the best flavor in a burger, Fuddruckers still is king. 5 guys is good, far better fries than Fudd’s. Here the topic was best burger not best burger and fries.

Posted by: BurgerMeister, Dec 06, 2008 06:09:31 AM

Don’t understand the fuss over 5 guys overcooked burgers; their fries and hot dogs are much better. Also, the best burger for the money in my opinion is at Foster’s Grill in the Magruder’s shopping center in Vienna and they have good fresh cut fries too.

Posted by: Dave S, Dec 05, 2008 11:31:38 AM

My favorite burger: Froggy Bottom Pub.

They serve em up good to the school kids.

Posted by: James, Dec 03, 2008 05:55:58 AM

Been to them all. All have their strengths and weaknesses. At Ray’s Hell Burger, I simply cant get compfortable being treated like a dog. Get inb line, bet stressed waiting to orser, order (Cash only), and then hold your drink, to get it warm while you wait 20 mins for a pre-cooked burger. It was right infront of y eyes as I saw them on a cookie sheet out of an oven BLAH.. YUK! burger was dry as a board. Z burger, needs to be creative and not be a rip off of five guys be original or get out of the picture, Burger Joint tries real hard, solid char grilled burger tasted great. fries were tremendous. long lines and long wait is the prescription here, but its a small place putting out good to great food. Im my humble opinion the most reliable of the bunch.

Posted by: Burger Man, Nov 30, 2008 02:14:39 PM

Ray’s Hell-Burger is served in the bar area of Ray’s the Steaks sister restaurant in Silver Spring, Ray’s the Classics. Here they call it the Butcher Burger and it’s outstanding and a great deal, too. Ignore the haters, come the the Sprung and give it a try. And, the restaurant is right across the street from the AFI Silver Theater.

Posted by: Silver Spring Represent!, Nov 28, 2008 11:20:07 AM

I believed all the Hell-burger hype and indeed, my burger was from hell. The meat was overcooked to the point of crumbling everywhere and had no flavor. The bun crumbled into pieces immediately. I hated being watched by everyone in line as people scrambled for an open table. The root beer was the only redeeming part of my experience.

My 5 Guys experience at Tysons was 100% better. Yes, that’s right, eating a mall food court was preferable to eating in a crowded room with people standing over you. Disastrous.

Posted by: Anna, Nov 17, 2008 01:04:31 PM

Until recently, my humble opinion on the best burger in the DC metro area was the burger at the Brewer’s Art in Baltimore, MD.
As a total package (rosemary garlic fries, burger and micro brewed belgian style beer) the Brewer’s Art cannot be beat.
I just had a burger (peppercorn, roasted garlic and the sherry/cognac sauteed mushrooms) at Ray’s Hell Burger and on the burger basis only, my humble opinion is that Ray’s burger beats the Brewer’s Art burger by a hair.

Therefore, as of this moment, Ray’s Hell Burger is the best burger you can get in the DC metro area.

This is my humble opinion, of course:)

Posted by: Jotago, Nov 09, 2008 09:22:37 PM

Was at BGR burger joint on Friday. The Burger was great. It met my expectations. (pretty high given all the hype) It actually looked just like the picture online, had the pumpkin milkshake and YES the fries are off the charts. I was also at Rays Hell Burger last week, I simply dont get it, I left frustrated and I felt dirty... I did hit Z burger for their free burgers on election day. Ok kinda like 5 guys, but not even in the same league as BGR, Good Stuff, or Rays

Posted by: The Mayor, Nov 09, 2008 12:47:31 PM

I had the lobster roll at the burger joint and it was not good at all. There wasn’t any actual lobster in it and for $15 I wasn’t happy at the fact that I was hungry 10 minutes later

Posted by: johnny, Nov 06, 2008 05:26:33 PM

What about Kavanagh’s in Glover Park? They also have ’em at half price on Mondays.

Posted by: Josh, Nov 06, 2008 10:49:44 AM

I totally lucked out when I found Spider Kelly’s burgers. Addictive and delicious. I have a little thing going for the "fridge sauce." Plus their chicken burger is the best non-beef version I’ve ever tried--a thousand times better than any turkey burger out there.

Posted by: Lucky girl, Nov 05, 2008 01:55:48 PM

Another vote for Joe’s Burger in McLean, a small 14 seat end unit restaurant that’s all about burgers. It’s a must for anyone in the McLean area.

Posted by: Chris, Nov 02, 2008 08:20:48 AM

Blue Ridge Grill in Leesburg has the best burger ever! It melts in your mouth. Try it!

Posted by: Allyn, Nov 01, 2008 02:22:17 PM

Try the Kobe burger at Joe’s Burgers in McLean. Add some Boursin, carmelized onions, and mushrooms. Just fine!

Posted by: Fairfax, Oct 31, 2008 02:28:46 PM

5 Guys is the BEST!
They concentrate on real burgers and fries and get it right, not sissy truffle cheese, thyme and rosemary, shredded carrot and daikon, fresh mint, and Thai basil, cucumbers, cumin or a black-bean-studded veggie burger???? (There should be a law against calling that a burger.) The only negative against 5 Guys is the tin can acoustics in their eateries.

Posted by: Mike, Oct 31, 2008 02:22:00 PM

I haven’t been lucky enough to try many of those mentioned but The Olney Ale House has the best burgers. Charcoal grilled and juicy on the inside so the juice runs down your chin. I’ve tried 5 Guys, and Urban Burger and they don’t come close.

Posted by: patpur, Oct 31, 2008 11:51:22 AM

http://bestburgerdc.blogspot.com/


CEIBA has an amazing half chorizo-half beef burger with a melted manchego and carmelized onions, delicious!!!

Posted by: Burger lover, Oct 28, 2008 06:32:40 PM

You want fat in your burger but Prime beef is overkill in a burger. I have had Ray’s Hell Burger and wasnt impressed.

I love a dry aged prime grass fed steak and have had burgers made from dry aged prime beef a few prime levels above what Ray’s serves and it was still just a burger. You do know there are different levels of prime and dry aging beats wet aging.

You want flavor and fat. Chuck and round in a nice mix work best. Proportions depend on the fat level of the chuck and round. Prime doesnt
mean the burger has flavor and taste.

Its a hamburger or cheeseburger not a gourmet creation. 5 Guys has a great burger at the right price with outstanding fries.

The great philosopher James Delaney Buffett agve excellent advice in his poem a Cheeseburger in Paradise

Posted by: Clifton, VA, Oct 23, 2008 08:00:19 AM

Clifton: Five Guys??? Hey look, I love Five Guys burgers too but they do not touch the Ray’s Hell Burger. It is easily the most amazing burger I’ve ever had. Primo beef, great taste, good toppings - nothing compares. If I can just get them to change their bun .....

Burger Manic: Yes, they fall apart - the best ones always do! And, eating a vegetarian or chicken burger is like drinking decaf coffee: what’s the point!?

Posted by: Not Ray!, Oct 22, 2008 03:12:05 PM

Urban Burger (Norbeck Shopping Center, Rockville) needs to be included in the discussion - great fires and onion rings, too...

Posted by: Tom Andrew, Oct 22, 2008 11:22:46 AM

I personally love a Stoney’s burger!! Especially when topped with carmelized onions...Mmmmmmm!

Posted by: Neighborhood Foodie, Oct 22, 2008 10:57:39 AM

Five Guys beats them all. You all are too impressed with names etc.

Posted by: Clifton, Oct 22, 2008 09:19:39 AM

What about Elevation Burger? They have the healthiest burgers and most eco-concious mission of the bunch. I would vote for them.

Posted by: grass-fed burgers!, Oct 22, 2008 08:46:00 AM

You missed the best of the bunch - Big Buns. The Burger Joint and Good Stuff is overpriced, and like Ann said in her article, the best thing on their menus aren’t the burgers. Ray’s Hell Burger doesn’t have fries and their bland burgers fall apart.

If you want consistency in burgers and choices for your vegetarian and chicken-loving friends, go to Big Buns... and no, I don’t work there or have any friends that work there.

Posted by: Burger Manic, Oct 21, 2008 12:44:48 PM

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